Sophie Lavaud: the ‘Queen of Climbers’

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As Sophie Lavaud herself readily admits, she’s not your typical mountaineering legend. Born in Lausanne in 1968, she started late – in her thirties – and wasn’t even a professional athlete.

Yet, by mid-2023, this powerhouse mountaineer with triple citizenship (French, Swiss and Canadian) had achieved the extraordinary – becoming the first Swiss woman and the first person from France or Canada to reach the summit of all 14 of Earth’s 8,000-metre giants, a feat known as the ‘Crown of the Himalayas’. 

We caught up with Sophie to chat about her incredible adventures and the motivation behind her achievements. 

Q: Your early career in events, hospitality and marketing seems a world away from conquering mountains. What ignited your passion for reaching the world’s highest peaks?

Sophie Lavaud (SL): Climbing wasn't a childhood passion, even though my family had a place in Chamonix. It all began with a friendly bet in 2004 – my sick friend and I aimed to summit Mont Blanc (4,806m). He achieved his dream, and for me, it ignited a lifelong love for climbing. From the Alps' 4,000 metres, I was drawn to ever-higher challenges – the technical aspects, and the allure of altitude. Mont Blanc was the turning point, the gateway to reaching the 8,000-metre giants of the Himalayas.   

Q: The jump from 4,000 metre peaks to the colossal 8,000 metres of the Himalayas seems massive. What’s the biggest difference between these climbs? And how did you prepare for the challenges?

SL: After conquering 4,000-metre peaks in the Alps, I pushed myself to 5,000 metres, then 6,000, and finally 7,000 metres. It was a natural progression – the 8,000-metre peaks were just next on my list.

But an 8,000-metre climb is a whole different beast compared to the Alps. Mont Blanc takes a couple of days, but an 8,000-metre peak is a two-month expedition. It's about acclimatisation, training your body for extreme altitude and low oxygen (hypoxia), and meticulous planning.

Finding the time was also a huge hurdle – with a demanding job, securing two months off was nearly impossible. Ironically, the 2008 financial crisis ended up giving me the push I needed. My company folded in 2011, freeing up my time to pursue my dreams.

In 2012, I tackled my first 8,000-metre peak, Shishapangma (8,027m) in Tibet, and even summited another, Cho Oyu (8,201m), in the same season. Looking back, it feels strange to say this, but in a way, thank you to the economic crisis for allowing me to live my dream.

This success fuelled my passion, and after summiting Everest (8,849m) in 2014, I knew I couldn't stop. That’s when I finally quit my job, looked for sponsors and dedicated myself fully to climbing.

Q: You’ve conquered some of the world’s most dangerous mountains, but which one stands out as the most challenging – the technical brutality of K2 (8,611m), the world’s second largest mountain, or the sheer altitude of Everest?

SL: For me, K2 tested me the most out of all the 14 – a brutal mountain combining extreme altitude with technical difficulty and treacherous access. Just reaching the base camp takes 10 days, traversing the 65km Baltoro glacier. From there, it’s a 3,600-metre technical climb where any mistake can be fatal.

The unpredictable weather adds another layer of danger, making K2 a formidable challenge. Everest, on the other hand, was a different experience. The emotional significance of reaching the top of the world is undeniable, but the climb itself isn't the most technical. The real challenge is the altitude, pushing your body to its absolute limit.

Q: Climbing 8,000-metre peaks is inherently risky. How did you deal with the fear while also planning every detail to stay safe?   

SL: There’s no denying the risks. Now that I’m looking back, I realise just how dangerous those climbs were. During expeditions, I pushed those thoughts aside, though – instead focusing on meticulous preparation.

I surrounded myself with experienced professionals like Dawa Sangay Sherpa (my climbing partner for 12 expeditions and seven summits), which was crucial. Using a top Himalayan weather forecaster and a reliable logistics agency also minimised risks. Of course, zero risk can never exist, but thorough planning, being in peak physical condition, and having strong partnerships all made the dangers more manageable.   

Q: You've been through some hair-raising situations on these climbs. What’s scared you the most on these expeditions?

SL: Extreme fear isn't something I typically experience while climbing. I've definitely felt scared, but "terrified" might be too strong a word. The biggest threats are avalanches and crevasses.

The more I’ve climbed in the Himalayas, the greater the respect I’ve gained for their power. Even with all the knowledge, avalanches remain unpredictable. A specific example that comes to mind is the 2016 K2 expedition.

During our summit push, we were at Camp 1 (6,100m) when a massive avalanche suddenly swept through Camp 3 (7,100m). We lost all our equipment, but thankfully nobody was hurt. Feeling the wind blast from the avalanche was a truly frightening experience.

Then there was the 2015 Nepal earthquake. Thankfully, I was on the slopes of Makalu (8,485m) when it hit, but the shaking was so intense – like being on a boat in a storm. While these were scary situations, luckily they didn't result in injuries.

Q: What advice do you have for aspiring mountaineers?

SL: Experience is paramount. Don't dream of Everest overnight. Start small, climb your local mountains, and gradually build your skills and experience. Learn about altitude sickness and understand the realities of expeditions. Reaching the highest peaks is a long climb, not a quick day trip.

Q: Many climbers are driven by breaking records or achieving firsts. What motivates you?

SL: Don't get me wrong, the challenge is definitely part of it – but reaching the top isn't the only thing. It's more about the whole experience. The journey itself, the bond you build with your team, and the fact that every climb is a new adventure to discover.

Q: Mountaineering has traditionally been seen a male-dominated sport. Did you ever feel like an outsider, and how has the culture evolved over the years? 

SL: There weren't many women climbers when I first started out. Thankfully, that's changing now, and more women are taking on these big mountains. Climbing isn't like the Olympics where everyone’s competing against each other – it's more about working together. Because of that, I hardly ever felt excluded on the mountain itself. Up there, you're a climber first, and everything else comes second.

Q: Looking back at your incredible journey, what stands out as your greatest accomplishment?

SL: Two things really stick out. First, summiting all 14 of the 8,000-metre peaks without any real injuries, frostbite or needing a rescue. It took meticulous planning, a fantastic team, and a dose of luck too. Also, it took me 22 expeditions to summit all 14 – a constant reminder that success in the mountains is never a sure thing – especially after losing friends along the way, which really puts things in perspective.

Second, and maybe most importantly, I’m just grateful to be alive and healthy to share these stories. The mountains can be humbling places.

Q: Your new documentary, ‘Sophie Lavaud: The Last Summit’ – which is set to hit Swiss cinemas later this year – chronicles your ascent of Nanga Parbat (8,126m), the last of your 8,000-metre peaks. Is this truly the end of your mountain climbing career, or is there more to come?

SL: No, not at all! It just signifies the completion of all 14 of the 8,000-metre peaks, not the end of my climbing journey by any stretch. I’ve just recently returned from a technical climb in Nepal. And my next target is the Seven Summits Challenge [which involves reaching the highest peak on each of the seven continents]. I’m missing three – but I hope to complete these by the end of this year, starting with Denali (6,190m) in Alaska in June.

After that, the Himalayas beckon again in 2025. It’s true that I’m now done with the 8,000-metre giants – it’s not good to risk too much – but there are countless other mountains to explore. One thing’s for sure, though, I'll keep pushing myself and savouring the climbing for as long as my body allows.

Pic credit: @NaDorje Sherpa

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